By being aware of the mistakes that are most often made by other aquarists, they can be avoided. Therefore, here is our list of what we consider to be the Seven Most Common Problem Causing Areas of Saltwater Aquaria Keeping.
1) Moving Too Fast - "Patience" is a requirement with just about anything that you do with a saltwater aquarium. Far too many people report problems after they have put a tank together, because they are just moving too fast! Far more times than we can count, we have read and heard aquarists comments like, "I need test kits? What for and what kind?" And, this is after they have had a tank for some time. A high percentage of people do not take the time to read and study up on the hobby BEFORE getting started. One of the other top mistakes of moving too fast is "overloading" a tank with too much livestock and/or live rock all at once, especially when a tank has not fully cycled, or doing so within days of cycle completion. Even in well a established tank, adding too many critters too fast can cause a puzzling problem called new tank syndrome. Slow down!! Saltwater aquaria keeping is NOT a timed event, so take it easy and work on your patience skills!
2) Misdiagnosing Diseases & Over Medicating - When it comes to diagnosing diseases, saltwater ich is the biggest problem. It is easy to confuse Oodinium (Amyloodinium ocellatum - a.k.a. Marine Velvet or Coral Fish Disease) with White Spot Disease (Cryptocaryon irritans). They are similar, but two quite different types of saltwater ich, and each responds to different types of treatment. Using the wrong medication to treat these diseases can be fatal. It is important to learn how to properly diagnose and treat these parasites, as well as other diseases. The Fish Disease Trouble Shooter can help you make the right diagnosis. As far as using medications, way too often one or more remedies are just thrown at a problem without knowing what it is. We feel that medications should only be used when necessary, and whenever possible, only in a Quarantine Tank using a remedy that "targets" the problem you actually have.
3) Inadequate Filtration - Having sufficient biological filtration is the one of the keys to success in keeping a saltwater aquarium. There are a number of filtration methods to choose from, but not making the right filter selection for the bio-load planned for your tank can lead to a wide variety of problems. It is always better to have too much biological filtration, rather than too little.
4) Livestock Incompatibility - We receive email messages with statements such as "my wrasse ate my cleaner shrimps and hermit crab", or "my tangs are always fighting and just won't get along" all too frequently. Purchasing livestock without researching whether or not they will peacefully reside with other tank mates can lead to dead or injured critters, as well as stress related diseases. Use common sense; learn about the compatibility of critters before putting them together!
5) Purchasing Livestock Without Knowing What They Are and How To Care For Them -
It is amazing how many people select new additions for their tank without even knowing what they are and how to feed them. If a LFS sales person can't tell you about an animal in their store, especially its dietary requirements, as well as show you that it is eating before you buy it, then run, don't walk to the nearest exit. Don't buy on impulse. It's not like there will never be another one ordered in the future that you can buy. Take the time to learn about an animal you want to buy, BEFORE doing so!
6) Purchasing Fish in Poor Health - One of the easiest things to do when selecting a critter is to determine whether or not it is healthy. In a simple phrase: most sick fish don't eat. Once again, always have your LFS sales person show you that a fish is eating before purchasing it. On your part, learn how to recognize the symptoms or outward signs of common illnesses so you know what to look for when inspecting livestock to buy.
7) Lack of Performing Routine Tank Maintenance Tasks - Well maintained tanks seldom experience high nitrate levels, bacterial outbreaks, or other common tank problems. Therefore, to avoid the common pitfalls that may stem from this area, we strongly advise following a regular maintenance routine.
Of course there are many other areas where aquarists make mistakes, but we feel that this list pretty much covers a majority of the most common ones made. By taking advice from those that have been there, you'll save yourself a lot of headaches and frustration in the long run.
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I am sure lots of time and money has been spent researching the needs of the fish and corals you wish to purchase. Naturally, you want to protect this investment by following a proper acclimation process once your new additions arrive at your door.
The purpose of acclimation is simple: the water that the fish or corals are packaged in has a different temperature, pH, and salinity parameter than your aquarium. Fish, and more importantly invertebrates (including corals), are very sensitive to even the slightest changes in these parameters, so proper acclimation is crucial to ensuring their successful relocation.
We recommend the DRIP METHOD and want to remind you the acclimation process should never be rushed. Also, remember to keep your aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new additions are introduced into the aquarium to help them adjust to their new home.
Drip Method
You will need airline tubing and must be willing to monitor the entire process. Use a clean, 3 or 5-gallon bucket specifically for aquarium use only. If acclimating both fish and invertebrates, use a separate buckets for each.
Carefully empty the contents of the bags (including the water) into the buckets , making sure not to expose sensitive invertebrates to the air. Depending on the amount of water in each bag, this may require tilting the bucket at a 45 degree angle to make sure the animals are fully submerged. You may need a prop or wedge to help hold the bucket in this position until there is enough liquid in the bucket to put it back to a level position.
Using airline tubing, set up and run a siphon drip line from the main aquarium to each bucket. You will need separate airline tubing for each bucket used. Use a plastic airline control valve to regulate flow from the aquarium. It is a good idea to secure the airline tubing in place so that it does not drip outside the bucket.
Begin a siphon by sucking on the end of the airline tubing you'll be placing into each of the buckets. When water begins flowing through the tubing, adjust the drip by adjusting the control valve to a rate of about 1-3 drips per second.
When the water volume in the bucket doubles, discard half and begin the drip again until the volume doubles once more – about one hour.
At this point, your new additions can be transferred to the aquarium. Sponges, clams, and gorgonias should never be directly exposed to air. Gently scoop them out of the drip bucket with the original bag, making sure they’re fully covered in water. Submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and gently remove the specimen from the bag. Next, seal off the bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the water will escape into the aquarium; this is O.K. Also, to avoid damage, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of live coral when handling.
NOTE: Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to changes in specific gravity. It is extremely important to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result. Test specific gravity with a hydrometer or refractometer.
Important Facts
* Be patient - never rush the acclimation procedure. The total acclimation time for your new arrival should take no longer than one hour.
* Always follow the acclimation procedure even if your new arrival appears to be dead. Some fish and invertebrates can appear as though they are dead when they arrive and will usually revive when the above procedure is followed correctly.
* Never place an airstone into the shipping bag when acclimating your new arrival. This will increase the pH of the shipping water too quickly and expose your new arrival to lethal ammonia.
* Keep aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new arrival is introduced into the aquarium.
* Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to salinity changes. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result.
* Sponges, clams, scallops, and gorgonias should never be directly exposed to air. Follow the acclimation procedure, but instead of netting the specimen out of the shipping bag, submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and remove the marine life from the bag. Seal off the shipping bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the shipping bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted shipping water will escape into the aquarium. Don't be alarmed; this will have no adverse affect on the tank inhabitants.
* Some live corals produce excess slime when shipped. After the acclimation procedure is followed, hold the coral by the rock or skeletal base and gently shake the coral in the shipping bag before placing into the aquarium. To avoid damage, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of a live coral. Many species of coral will not open for several days after introduction into their new home. Please allow several days for the coral to adapt to the new conditions in the aquarium. _____________________________________________________________________________________
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS _____________________________________________________________________________________
So what's different about saltwater versus freshwater?
As alluded to above, saltwater fish are more sensitive to changes in their environment. The critical parameters of a saltwater tank are pH, nitrate, salinity, and temperature. During the cycling process, ammonia and nitrite can also be a problem. These elements are not different from those of a freshwater tank, but the degree to which they may stray is vastly different.
Freshwater fish are found in rivers, streams, ponds and lakes. Saltwater fish are collected from oceans and seas. As such, their natural environment is quite stable and they do not readily adapt to major changes in water chemistry or temperature. In addition, since nearly all saltwater fish and invertebrates are captured in the wild (many freshwater fish are either tank or pond raised), there are greater risks associated with handling and shipping. The most important thing you need to know about saltwater tanks, is that you can not have nearly as many fish as you can have in a freshwater tank!
Why does algae grow in my aquarium?
Algae is a naturally occurring plant life which is present in varying forms and in all aquaria. Algae is not harmful, however it can become unsightly. A good growth of healthy algae provides an additional food source for your fish and assists in oxygenation. Overnight algae “blooms” can sometimes occur. Algae is dependent upon food and light. Excess food and light can cause unusual algae blooms. Changes in water chemistry, temperature, etc. also support algaes growth.
How much do I feed my fish?
Small frequent feedings are best. Personally we recommend feeding your fish every other day rather than everyday. Of course, this also depends on the feeding requirements of your inhabitants. Examples would be Anthias and Tangs as they tend to have a higher metabolism and require continuous feeding. Feed a small amount and when it is quickly consumed by your fish, leaving nothing to fall to the bottom of the aquarium, you may feed more. Now, as a Rule of Thumb we recommend not feeding your fish any more food than the size of its eyeball as they are generally the same size. Now of course, this rule does not apply for every fish. However, it is a way of controlling the amount of food that is fed and the amount of excess waste that they will produce. A variety of food is very important for the health and well-being of your aquarium inhabitants. Overfeeding will pollute your system! Feed the fish (not the tank) ! Think about this...
Food should very seldom reach the bottom before your fish get it. You should strive to never see suspended, settled or floating food particles after 5 minutes. And - Never allow food to be left on the tank bottom. If you make a mistake and over feed any type of fish food, Please get out your net...and go to work eliminating as much as possible. (Excess food is often the primary cause of undesirable algae outbreaks and also a "trigger" for many fish deaths related to poor water quality). Just 5 minutes out of your day! Some situations require daily or twice daily feedings. Others will require only feeding every three days or so. Consult your professional regarding your specific tank community. In all cases, each feeding will only require 5 minutes of your time.
Please be willing to invest this small amount of time at each feeding. You will save yourself many headaches and considerable money. You will get to know your fishes habits and what foods they like. And ...you will become better at NOT overdoing it.
Stay around and enjoy observing them during feeding. Not only are they more active during this time, but it is highly important that you see that there is no uneaten food left behind. You will also be able to note any unusual behavior that might indicate an emerging problem.
Very occasionally food will land on the substrate. If it can be removed - it should be. Please take notice and do your level best to rid the tank of this potential pollution. Net it out or grab it out - just get it out. You may be preventing a chain reaction which could lead to many fish losses. Then - Be certain to adjust future feedings to insure that this does not happen often. So, be careful..... And responsible!!
How can I get my fish to eat?
This can be a problem for any aquarists when a new fish shows no interest in foods that are being offered. Whether dealing with a non-eating fish, crustacean, anemone, coral or other invertebrate, the first step in overcoming this problem is to know what feeding characteristics it has, and what feeding category it falls into. What and how does it eat in nature? Is it a carnivore, herbivore, omnivore, suspension or filter feeder?
Carnivores: Eat a main diet of other marine fishes, crustaceans and invertebrates. These animals are categorized as predators and/or scavengers. Predators spend their life hunting or lying in wait for an unwary meal. When a meal is consumed or they have had their fill, many species will not eat again for a day or two, sometimes longer.
Scavengers are opportunistic feeders, generally eating the left overs from other predators, and most will eat detritus as well. For fish, Cardinals, Dottybacks, Eels, Frogs/Anglers, Grammas, Groupers, Hamlets, Hawks, Lions/Scorpions, Pipefishes, Porcupines, Puffers, Seabasses, Sharks, Snappers, Soldierfishes, Squirrels and Triggers are predators, and most are also scavengers. Even though some Hermit Crab, True Crab, Shrimp and Starfish species are herbivores, most are carnivorous or omnivorous, and all types should be considered scavengers. Some will eat or pick at sessile (attached at the base; stationary) invertebrates and corals, coraline algae, and may even attack other fish or tank mates and inhabitants. Many Anemones are considered carnivorous, but some fall into the filter feeders category as well.
Herbivores: Eat a main diet of marine plants and algaes. These animals spend their entire day cruising and grazing, picking here and there when a food source is found. Fish that fall into this category are Tangs, Surgeons and some Blenny species. Some species of Sea Urchins, Hermit Crabs, True Crabs and Starfishes are herbivores, but most are considered omnivorous, as well as scavengers as mentioned above.
Omnivores: Eat a combination diet of corals, small crustaceans, inverts and some marine plant life. These are not predatory fish, but some species will sometimes pick at fleshy foods as well. Fish that fall into this category are Damsels, Clownfishes, Cow/Boxfishes, Anthias', Blennies, Gobies, Dottybacks, Filefishes, Goatfishes, Seahorses, Spade/Batfishes, Sweetlips, Wrasses/Hogfishes and Moorish Idols. Angels and Butterflyfishes are considered to be omnivores, but some species mainly or solely feed on corals and/or particular sponges. Parrotfish are considered to be strictly coral eaters. Suspension or filter feeders are either sessile animals that derive their nutrition from filtering out nutrients and microscopic foods suspended in the ocean water, or sand sifting animals that filter foods from their substrate environment.
Animals like corals, tube worms, sponges, tunicates and the like are suspension feeders, while sea cucumbers, some species of starfishes, marine worms and other similar inverts fall into the filter feeder category. Mandarinfish/Dragonets, some Blenny, Goby and other similiar fish species are predatory sand sifters. They search for tiny crustaceous copepods and amphipods to feed on, and require a good healthy population of them in the aquarium substrate to survive.
Why do my fish sometimes fight amongst themselves?
Fish have different personalities. Some are aggressive, others are passive. Fish do eat other fish. If one specimen becomes weakened or is otherwise too timid, he will fall often prey to other fish. Even compatible species sometimes will kill one another. Sometimes death occurs as a result of stress from being chased by other fish or as a result of competition from other specimens. We will do our best to recommend compatible species, but in this field no rule is absolute.
Aggression among fish, particularly marine species, is a problem that plagues both beginning and advanced aquarists. For example, you buy a new fish and add it to your apparently peaceful community tank and suddenly violence erupts. Long-term residents react aggressively toward a newly introduced fish, causing acclimation difficulties. This can lead to stress, disease and often the subsequent death of the new addition. The purpose of this article is to examine reef fish aggression and suggest techniques that will allow us to reduce conflict in our saltwater aquariums.
Provide as much aquarium space as possible for each tank inhabitant, especially if some of the species are known to be aggressive. Overcrowding your aquarium will lead to profuse amounts of fighting.
There should be a large number of hiding places in the tank. This doesn't simply mean to load the tank with coral or live rock. Make sure there are caves, crevices and holes suitable for all members of your aquarium community. Also, utilize topography to curb aggression. Using a number of smaller coral heads or groupings of live rock rather than a continuous wall of them can be advantageous in dispersing territory holders and reducing skirmishes among them. A territorial fish will often restrict its defense to one coral head, which is the core area of its territory, and the immediate area around it. If the aquascaping structure is contiguous, more battles over boundaries are likely to occur.
Avoid keeping members of the same species in the same aquarium unless they are known to school or group in captivity. Some species that school on the reef may not tolerate each other in the confines of a smaller tank. Even in schools, individuals usually maintain a specific distance between each other, and often in a home aquarium these spacing requirements cannot be met. The size of the tank is important in determining if you will be successful in keeping species members together.
If you intend to keep two fish of the same species together, it is often wise to introduce them into your aquarium at the same time. Many of the species we keep will change sex depending on their social status. Often, a larger, more dominant individual will be one sex and the smaller, subordinate specimens in the group will be the opposite sex. To increase the likelihood of acquiring a pair in a sex-changing species, purchase two individuals of different sizes. If a subordinate individual is removed from its natural environment and isolated in a dealer's tank, it may begin to change sex. Once an individual has changed sex, it cannot be reversed. Therefore, if you place two individuals in the same tank and fighting occurs, it could be that the fish are both the dominant sex and will have to be separated. This technique is especially effective when trying to keep species such as clownfish or pygmy angelfish.
If problems do occur when you introduce a new fish, there are several techniques you can use to eliminate or minimize the hostility. Turning off all lights will temporarily reduce aggression, unless, of course, the aggressor is a nocturnal species. Fish are often less aggressive on a full stomach, so feeding your fish can sometimes be effective for short-term behavioral modification.
If these simple procedures are ineffective, then more drastic steps will be necessary. Because many territorial fish remember the boundaries of their territory by the topographical features of their habitat, changing the aquascaping around immediately before and after introducing a new fish can reduce aggression. In effect, changing the topography is the same as moving the old residents of the tank to a new area.
Another method for introducing a new fish into a more aggressive community tank is to partition a portion of the aquarium off, creating an area where you can isolate the new resident. The partition should be clear, such as plexiglass, so that the older residents can see the new fish and habituate to its presence. Depending on the type of filtration used, it may be necessary for the partition to contain numerous holes and the top to be slotted to allow water exchange between the two compartments. This isolation period allows the new fish to become familiar with a part of the tank so that it can more easily find a place to hide, if necessary, when the partition is removed. After a week or so, the partition can be removed. With any luck, aggression will be minimal.
Another option is to pull the aggressor out of the tank, isolate it in a quarantine tank and then reintroduce it after the new arrival has settled in. If all of these techniques fail, you will probably have to permanently remove the aggressive individual(s) or give up the idea of introducing more fish into the tank.
Why do healthy fish becomes sick?
Even established aquariums with healthy communities can become diseased. Parasites and bacteria are always present in aquarium water. Stress due to temperature fluctuations and other factors such as minute contaminants, can cause outbreaks of disease.
What is the Nitrogen Cycle?
The magic that makes it possible to keep aquarium fish alive and well in an aquarium.
The nitrogen cycle is a chain reaction in nature resulting in the birth of various types of nitrifying bacteria's, each with their own job to do. Each new bacteria born consumes the previous one, and in turn gives birth to the next bacteria. The three components involved to make this happen are ammonia (NH3 or NH3+4), nitrites (NO2) and nitrates (NO3).
What does this mean? The above explanation is the process that keeps your fish alive, the exact same process which occurs in our oceans, lakes and streams. Without this process your fish would be dead within days
To put the above explanation into terms you would understand it would go something like this. Your fish go to the bathroom, their waste turns into ammonia which is deadly and will kill your fish given the chance. That same waste, with the help of the above process, is then converted into a beneficial bacteria that needs ammonia to live. Therefore, each time your fish go to the bathroom this bacteria gladly consumes the ammonia thus leaving your aquarium toxin free.
Is this all there is to it? No, nothing is that easy, for every consumption there is an emission, in this circumstance the good bacteria converts into yet another deadly toxin called Nitrate. The only way to remove nitrate from your aquarium is by replacing your aquarium water, a water change. It's important to note that Nitrate is the least deadly and takes time to build up to a lethal dose.
During the first seven to ten days of setting up your aquarium with fish/liverock and water, the ammonia level should peak and quickly drop as nitrites begin to show up. DON'T - do any water changes yet (you should add water to make up for evaporation only) DON'T clean your filter yet.
Now, between the 15th and 19th day, your nitrites should be peaking about now and should soon drop. Ammonia should still be at zero. The process to rid the aquarium of nitrites takes a bit longer than the ammonia so be patient and remember...
DON'T - do any water changes yet (you should add water to make up for evaporation only) DON'T clean your filter yet. You will get tired of doing that soon enough.
Now during the 22nd and 29th day, the ammonia and Nitrites should be at zero now and Nitrates should be present. You can now start adding more fish, but be careful. Add only a few fish. You need to allow a bit of time for the bacteria to increase to take care of the increased bio-load that the new fish will add.
Now, you can do water changes. It is the way for you to control the nitrate level. 10 to 15% weekly or at least monthly is recommended. If you have an overstocked tank, you may need to increase the amount or frequency. Now - you can clean your filter. Be careful here. Clean your filter media in dechlorinated water (used aquarium water). This is so that you do not kill the bacteria that was formed during the nitrogen cycle.
What is a Protein Skimmer?
Protein skimmers or foam fractionators are readily available in every price range and are a basic necessity for any marine system. Beyond the requisite biological filtration, nothing is better at improving water quality than a protein skimmer.
The bulk of undesirable organic wastes that we want to eliminate from our systems and “surface active”, collecting near the surface of a gas-liquid interface. We can capitalize on this affinity in a column of aquarium water with air bubbles mixed in. Trapped materials, including wastes, uneaten food, and more, rise and are collected at the top as foam.
The tools that accomplish this are called foam separators, fractionators, air-strippers, or protein skimmers. (They actually remove much more than proteins, and purists tend to refer to them as foam fractionators, although the term protein skimmers is deeply entrenched in the aquarium lexicon.) Whatever they are called, the action is the same, with complex organic substances attaching to tiny air bubbles rising in a column or chamber. A dark, waste-laden foam concentrates at the top of the unit to be separated from the water and collected for disposal.
Types of skimmers: Protein skimmers generally fall into four types: air-driven, venturi, downdraft, and "other".Air-driven protein skimmers use a wooden or glass air stone to produce bubbles in a column of water. In hobbyist terms, we usually call these guys counter current skimmers. At one point co-current and counter-current was a big debate. These terms refer to the rotation of the water inside the skimmer. I don't think anyone cares too much about this debate anymore. Air driven skimmers require periodic (monthly) replacement of the air stones, a strong air pump to drive the air stones, and a small water pump to move water in and out of the skimmer.
What is Live Rock?
The main misconception is that the rock itself is alive. The rock is made up of calcium carbonate skeletons of long dead corals or other calcareous organisms. What makes it live is all the organisms living on it or in the crevices. Most of what is alive is bacteria which feed off the waste the fish produce. There also can be snails, crabs, worms, shrimp, sponge, and even algae living or growing on it. So when someone refers to live rock they are referring to rock that has living organisms on it.
Why do I need Live Rock?
The main reason live rock is the key to a saltwater aquarium is that it provides a home for different kinds of bacteria. These bacteria break down fish waste from ammonia all the way down to nitrogen gas which gets released from the tank.
Live rock is by far the most efficient biological filter and is of course the natural one. An important note about live rock is that it goes in to the main part of the tank. Unlike most hang on biological filters or wet/dry filters, when the power goes out, the live rock is still able to act as a filter since it is still in the tank with the fish.
Live rock is the main formation of the reefs out in the ocean and the main biological filter. Live rock provides a home for the fish and a foundation for most corals to grow on. Just like humans need a home to live in, most sea creatures need rock to provide them their home. Many fish do not do well in an aquarium without having hiding places. When fish do not have places to hide, such as those provided by live rock, they get spooked and stressed-out, which often leads to them getting sick and even dying. Corals also need a structure to live on and live rock allows them to be placed in a tank according to the specific environment they require.
What is the difference between cured live rock and uncured live rock?
Uncured live rock is the result of shipping. After the rock is harvested from the ocean it gets boxed up and eventually sent to our store. That process causes some of the organisms on the rock to die off. Once the live rock gets put back into saltwater, the dead organisms decay and pollute the water. The dying organisms produce waste the same way fish do. The bacteria that grow on the rock to feed off the fish waste also grow to feed off the waste of the dying organisms. This process is referred to as cycling. Cycling a tank can take a few weeks because there are different kinds of bacteria that have to grow to break down the different forms of waste. After the cycle has finished and the rock is no longer producing waste and is in a state of breaking down waste it is considered cured.
How do I cure my live rock?
The use of live rock to create a reef system in the aquarium is one of the fastest growing areas in the aquatic industry. After being harvested from the ocean, transported into our holding tanks, and then reshipped to the end customer, “die-off” of organisms will occur on the live rock. This is a natural reaction to the environmental stress of temperature changes and exposure to air. “Curing” live rock is the process of removing the dead and decaying organic material from your live rock before you can add livestock to your new aquarium, or before you add new live rock to your established aquarium.
Live rock is a huge benefit to reef systems but there are a few special considerations, mainly curing, that aquarists need to understand to ensure the health of their reef inhabitants. During the curing process ammonia levels from the decomposing organic material can reach toxic levels, and for this reason you should never add new live rock to an existing aquarium. Most of the beneficial nitrifying bacteria and some of the other corals, macroalgaes, and animals will survive this process, providing you with the foundation for a successful marine aquarium.
Curing your live rock usually takes from one to three weeks depending upon the amount organic material that is on the live rock. This can be highly variable depending on what type of live rock is purchased. Follow these steps for the best results.
You will need the following supplies:
* A trash can or storage container of suitable size to submerge the live rock, 30 gallons is usually a good size * A submersible aquarium heater big enough to keep the water at 80 degrees during the curing process * A submersible pump, or pumps, to provide vigorous water movement in the container * A soft scrub brush and an old tooth brush, to remove debris from surface of the rock. * Synthetic salt mix * Salt water ammonia test kit
1. Premix enough saltwater to completely submerge rock in your large container upon arrival. 2. Use the soft scrub brush to remove any loose or obviously decaying material; use a toothbrush to get into smaller areas. Do not scrub the entire rock, you are only removing loose or decaying material. 3. Place rock under water and use the submersible pumps to create a vigorous water pattern in the container; use the heater to keep the water at 80 degrees.
4. Keep the container covered or dimly lit to prevent unwanted algae growth during high nutrient conditions. 5. Perform 100% water changes twice per week 6. Repeat scrubbing as necessary in-between water changes. 7. After the first week test the water for ammonia, once the ammonia levels have been reduced to zero the rock is cured and ready for the aquarium. prepared seawater.
What happens if I don't cure it properly?
Improperly cured rock will continue to go through a die back, and if added to your tank too quickly, will cause an ammonia spike that could be deadly to existing inhabitants in the tank. In addition, if aeration and proper temperature are not maintained, then more of the beneficial nitrifying bacteria will die off, reducing the initial effectiveness of the rock as a biological filter. Live rock is not difficult to cure properly and the benefits of high quality live rock are well worth the effort. So follow these simple steps and you can be assured that you are putting clean, healthy rock into your aquarium.
How much live rock do I need for my aquarium?
For best filtration, the general "rule of thumb" is 1 lb of Pacific origin rock per gallon or 1 1/2 to 2 lbs of Atlantic or Carribean rock per gallon (the Pacific is more porous, so less is needed to produce the same results).
Where do your corals come from?
Ninety percent of our coral is collected from the country of origin and our collectors hand pick the very best specimens for our online and maintenance customers.
Our corals are also shipped directly to us which means that the corals are only bagged twice. Once straight to our facility and then finally to you. When you buy from your local fish store (and other online dealers), your new purchase most likely has been shipped to a wholesaler, then shipped to the store and then bagged a third time when taken home by you. One too many questionable water systems on the way to your aquarium! Once our weekly shipment arrives at our facility, they are dissinfected in quarantine for any possible external parasites, continously monitored throughout their stay for any potential issues, held under the strictest level of water chemistry and lighting awaiting to be shipped to you, our valued customer. We definitely have the finest, healthiest corals available on-line, take pride in our sucess of having an extremly low mortality rate, and know how to get them to you in the best condition available.
Does it harm the reefs to collect and sell fish and corals from them?
The Fish Guy realizes that cutting up reefs and selling them won't last. The livestock we buy is unprotected and collected legally. We buy captive bred xenia, mushrooms, soft corals, clams, and fish whenever possible, and even propagate some ourselves. We educate our customers about the livestock they are buying, and help them create a healthy aquarium that will simulate a natural environment. This means that we are placing fish and corals into flourishing aquariums where they will live and grow for years to come. The Fish Guy believes that by helping construct natural reef aquariums around the world the general public will have a chance to see a living coral reef up close, and will realize how important it is to protect Earth's most magnificent and diverse ecosystem.
Are there some aquarium fish sold in aquarium stores that usually do not do well in captivity?
We wish that we could say that all fish sold in the aquarium industry were great specimens that, if properly cared for, would live a long time. Unfortunately, that is not the case. Some fish simply do not do well in captivity. Some species may have requirements that we cannot provide, such as a special diet. Other species may only survive under certain conditions we cannot duplicate or may not be kept in close quarters with many of the other available species. Some fish that shoal (school) together in the wild will not live for a long time if they are not kept with large numbers of the same species (There are a large number of shoaling fish, however, that will do well if kept by themselves). Some species are easily stressed by being in captivity and may therefore be particularly sensitive to certain disease vectors. Unfortunately, too many of these fish are sold to new hobbyists, especially with marine aquaria, and when the fish do not do well, the new or inexperienced hobbyist may get discouraged and give up the hobby. This serves no one, especially the aquarium industry, as these are the people who will let everyone they know "how hard aquariums are to keep," thereby discouraging others from getting into the hobby. There are hundreds of species that will do well in aquaria. We feel there is no reason to sell species that have a history of being difficult. It isn't fair to the aquarium owner, and it is especially unfair to the fish!
What is Red Slime Algae(Cynobacteria)?
Red Slime Algae are unsightly, aggressive algae commonly found in many saltwater aquariums. Though they are commonly referred to as algae, they are not "true" algae, but are cyanobacteria.
These microscopic organisms thrive in underwater environments where excess nutrients and poor water conditions are present. Red Slime Algae are reddish-brown in color and first appear in your aquarium in small clumps or patches. If left untreated, the algae will spread and form a thick, slimy layer across your entire aquarium. To prevent nuisance Red Slime Algae from overtaking your aquarium, routine maintenance is extremely important. Here are some simple steps you can take to reduce excess nutrients and organic debris, which play host to Red Slime Algae:
* Use a siphon to clean a portion of your substrate regularly. This will remove organic debris and uneaten food. Also, be sure not to overfeed your fish. Only feed as much food as they can consume in a few minutes.
* Be sure your aquarium has good water movement. A powerhead or wavemaker will help increase water movement.
* Perform regular water changes and routinely replace mechanical filter media.
* Maintain proper marine pH between 8.1 and 8.4 with buffers or with kalkwasser. A high pH helps discourage aggressive growth of Red Slime Algae.
* Supplement existing filtration with phosphate-removing chemical filter media.
* Use a reverse osmosis system for quality source water. This will help prevent buildup of excess minerals in aquarium water from the get-go.
Red Slime Algae are an annoying addition to your aquarium, and once present, a challenge to eliminate. The best way to deal with Red Slime Algae is prevention. With a regular maintenance regimen, you can help keep your aquarium beautiful and algae free.
Why is the Water in My Aquarium Green?
Green water is most often the result of an algae bloom. It often has turned an aquarium into what appears a thick pea soup. It is extremely unsightly in the novice's aquarium, and is extremely difficult to eradicate, even for the advanced fish keeper.
Green Algae is a single celled plant that uses light to photosynthesize. The plant itself is extremely small, only a single cell, and when conditions are right, will multiply quite rapidly. Green algae reproduces either asexually by buds, or in a second step, it sexually combines with other cells to product new plants with full chromosome content. These in turn grow buds and the process starts all over again. When this replication spirals out of control and overtakes an area, this is called a bloom. The major problem is that the algae plants are so small they are rarely removed by any standard filter, and even those that are trapped tend to clog the materials, slowing the flow and allowing more algae to remain in the actual aquarium water since the intake suction is reduced to continue the bloom.
The right conditions for a bloom include adequate fertilizer and light. In most cases in the home aquarium, even a new tank, the fertilizer needs are easily met. The only limiting factor for plants is phosphate, and most aquariums have more than enough to support a massive bloom if the lighting is adequate.
The most important factor when green water occurs is light. In my experience, in the great majority of the cases where a bloom occurs, natural light is allowed to strike the aquarium. The actual time when sunlight enters the aquarium can be quite brief, ten to twenty minutes a day seems to be enough. A very brightly sunlit room can also have the same effect.
Because of the size of the plant, and the very fast replication, eradicating an algal bloom is extremely difficult.
I do not advocate adding algicides, in many cases they may cause harm to the fish, I prefer a natural solution rather than employing strong toxic compounds.
A number of small water changes, about 10% per time spaced a day apart will dilute the cloud, but still leave it tinted green in most cases. This can be combined with more homeopathic actions. The most effective way is to remove the light source. If the sun is striking the tank from the rear or side, use a background to cover and block the entry of light. If the room is very bright, draw the shades during a greater part of the day to reduce the amount of light the algae can use. As a last resort, disassemble the aquarium and move it to a place that is much darker and use artificial lighting for the aquarium. Unless the tank is heavily planted with aquarium plants, the amount of light the fish receive is not particularly important.
The above is the best way to control the problem for the long term. Sunlight is extremely powerful, and is no friend to an aquarium. The other area that can be manipulated and controlled by the aquarist is the amount of available phosphate in the aquarium. This chemical compound is considered to be a limiting factor, if there is not enough of it, the plants are not able to grow. Just like reducing the sunlight limits the algae from photosynthesizing so that they starve and die back, limiting the phosphate will also inhibit the growth of algae from a metabolic constraint. At extremely low levels of phosphate, aquarium plants as well may suffer. Generally a balance exists between algae and live aquarium plants, when standard plants are thriving, they are much better at competing for available phosphate and get what they need first, so algae often is over whelmed. A rooted aquarium plant is able to extract nutrients from the soil as well, so reduction of dissolved phosphates in the water column is normally not a handicap for standard aquarium plants, rather they are much better able to compete and win against free floating algae.
Introduction of phosphate comes every time the fish are fed, as it is a component of the food. Fish require some phosphate for their metabolic processes, but rarely as much as is provided in the food. Some manufacturers have recognized this and consciously reduced the amount of phosphate in the foods they offer. Careful feeding with low phosphate foods will reduce the amount available for algae to use for themselves.
If there is still too much, the use of a phosphate remover resin will help keep the concentration low and prevent sudden blooms of algae. There are a variety of these products available on the market. Most require that they be added tot he higher flows of the filter and will remove a set amount of phosphate when they have been exhausted.
From a purely homeopathic viewpoint, I also use a biological sludge eliminator that helps break down the waste materials, from all sources, food, fecal mater and other decaying organic material. These bacteria teams incorporate phosphate into their biomass, thus preventing it from being available for free floating algae to exploit.
Sometimes the only thing that will do is a rapid fix, there are some floculants on the market that will help. A floculant will attract the algae as well as any other suspended particles into larger diameters clumps to allow the filter to remove them through its screens. Use a poly wool or filter floss in the filter rather than the regular filter materials. It is cheaper and, believe me, you will need to discard the material immediately after use. Poly Wool is the best trap for this treatment. Do not overdose. The downside to these products is that the clumping action will reverse and it will be even harder to clear the tank if you do!
Algae is rarely ever totally removed from an operating aquarium, most of the time some variety is anchored to hard surfaces, but the types that produce green water are suspended in the water column. They will gradually reduce to invisible populations when denied natural sunlight or enough phosphate to grow. Live rooted plants under artificial light have a better competitive advantage to grow and prevent algae explosions of any type. It seems the two are antagonistic, and there is very rarely a problem with algae in a strongly growing live planted aquarium.
How do I know which fish are compatible?
Below is a fish compatibility chart. This chart gives a general rule of what fish are okay to house with other fish. Keep in mind, as with any animal, they all have their own personalities and may not always be as compatible as the chart may show. There may be some harrasing from time to time as the fish simply need to figure out their pecking order. We claim no responsibility in the event that your fish end up perishing due to incompatibility regardless of whether the chart shows otherwise.
Are saltwater fish hard to keep?
Just as in freshwater, there are some species that are usually quite sturdy and some that challenge even the experts. The Compatibility Chart is meant to help the hobbyist choose fish and invertebrates appropriate for his level of expertise. Sometimes an individual or group of even the most hardy variety will have been subjected to just one too many changes, and will become weak or sickly or will refuse to eat. We will try to help in choosing healthy specimens as much as possible.
What size tank is needed?
Almost any size aquarium can be used, but generally a larger tank will be easier to keep chemically balanced and has a lot more options when it comes to fish compatibility. On the other hand, assuming the household budget is a factor, it is better to set up a medium-sized tank with good equipment than to attempt a larger tank with inadequate equipment. Many of the most popular saltwater sizes are in the 30 to 55 gallon range.
Which fish get along?
The Compatibility Chart will help with selecting fish that are likely to get along. In addition, the three following rules will usually apply: 1. Any fish that will fit into another fish's mouth usually ends up there. 2. The less related any two fish are, the more likely they will get along. 3. The less two fish resemble one another, the more likely they will get along.
Fish and Invertebrates Together?
Many hobbyists desire to keep a mixed collection - with both fish and invertebrates in the same aquarium. While such a display can certainly be very beautiful (especially with symbiotic species like anemones and clown fish), there can be problems involved. The most effective treatments for saltwater "ich" also kill invertebrates. Apparently, the cell structures are similar enough between parasites and invertebrates that the reactions to chemicals are quite the same.
Since the treatment/removal time for "ich" medications is at least four weeks the unfortunate hobbyist is often forced to sacrifice either the invertebrates by moving them to another tank or the fish by risking ineffective treatment.
To further complicate matters, salt water invetebrates are suspected of being "carriers" of "ich", and since a suitable treatment has yet to be utilized, suppliers cannot guarantee that invertebrates are free of these parasites.
The novice saltwater hobbyist is advised to weigh the risks of the mixed collection against the obvious benefits and to make plans accordingly. Freshwater dips and quarantine tanks can reduce the chances of newly acquired specimens introducing disease to an established aquarium. Low fish population density (few fish in a large tank as in the currently popular "reef" type aquariums) may reduce epidemic outbreaks and allow fish to deal with parasites in their natural manner.
Beginner Saltwater Fish
Damsels The best beginner fish for a marine tank are damsels. These fish are very hardy, being able to withstand worse water conditions than most other marine fish, they are not picky eaters, and they are fairly inexpensive.
Clownfish Clownfish are related to damsels, and are fairly hardy. However, they are sometimes more difficult to acclimate to a new tank. Clowns, in general, are very territorial, but are not otherwise aggressive except to other clowns.
Blennies/Gobies These small fish are somewhat hardy and are unlikely to cause trouble for the other fish in your tank. Some of them show a lot of personality, though they will get lost in a large tank. Many of these fish are excellent additions to a tank to help control algae.
Tangs Tangs are fairly hardy, though they are very susceptible to marine ich. Being algae eaters, they are useful to introduce when your tank starts growing algae. They must be fed leafy greens if there is no suitable algae growing in the tank (green algae).
Triggerfish/Lionfish If you are setting up a tank for large aggressive fish, you can start with triggers and/or lionfish, as they are hardy.
Beginner Invertebrates
Shrimps Some of the more popular shrimps are Cleaner Shrimp, Blood Shrimp, Candycane or Peppermint Shrimp, and Coral Banded Shrimp. The cleaner shrimp is denoted by a white on red stripe down the middle of its back. They are fairly easy to keep. The Blood shrimp is intensely red with some white spots. The Coral Banded shrimp is very popular with reef keepers, but must be watched around small fish. This shrimp has been known to eat small fish without thinking twice.
Crabs There are many different type of crabs, but the most commonly seen varieties are anemone crabs, arrow crabs, and hermit crabs. Crabs are generally omnivorous and readily accept the same foods as your fish. Like shrimp, crabs can only eat food which has made it to the bottom of the tank. Thus, ensure some food is in reach of your crabs.
Sea Urchins and Starfishes Most sea urchins and Starfishes are suitable for beginners who have a few months experience. Once again they vary greatly in size, shape, and color. Beware, some sea urchins are poisonous. Some sea urchins and starfish feed on detritus and algae, and small particles of food that have fallen within their reach while others are known to eat coral and invertebrates so research your new addition before you buy.
The following items may display behavior you are not familiar with: Fish: May breath rapidly during acclimation -- this is normal.
Angels, Triggers, & Tangs: Lay on their side when in the bag or acclimating.
Wrasses: Lay on their side when in bag or acclimating; may spin harmless cottony substance in bag and "play dead".
Shrimp: May act motionless for up to 30 seconds when first introduced into tank, move them around
Sand Crabs: May act motionless when first introduced, move them around.
Starfish: May stay motionless or not move for days at a time, pick up and inspect for signs of disintegration.
Snails & Conchs: May not open or move for days at a time, pick up and see if it smells rancid.
Puffers: Like to lay on bottom.
Corals & Anemones: May take hours or days to fully open or inflate.
Anemones: Shipped in little or no water, will inflate and shrink, disintegration is only indicator of death.
2) Misdiagnosing Diseases & Over Medicating - When it comes to diagnosing diseases, saltwater ich is the biggest problem. It is easy to confuse Oodinium (Amyloodinium ocellatum - a.k.a. Marine Velvet or Coral Fish Disease) with White Spot Disease (Cryptocaryon irritans). They are similar, but two quite different types of saltwater ich, and each responds to different types of treatment. Using the wrong medication to treat these diseases can be fatal. It is important to learn how to properly diagnose and treat these parasites, as well as other diseases. The Fish Disease Trouble Shooter can help you make the right diagnosis. As far as using medications, way too often one or more remedies are just thrown at a problem without knowing what it is. We feel that medications should only be used when necessary, and whenever possible, only in a Quarantine Tank using a remedy that "targets" the problem you actually have.
3) Inadequate Filtration - Having sufficient biological filtration is the one of the keys to success in keeping a saltwater aquarium. There are a number of filtration methods to choose from, but not making the right filter selection for the bio-load planned for your tank can lead to a wide variety of problems. It is always better to have too much biological filtration, rather than too little.
4) Livestock Incompatibility - We receive email messages with statements such as "my wrasse ate my cleaner shrimps and hermit crab", or "my tangs are always fighting and just won't get along" all too frequently. Purchasing livestock without researching whether or not they will peacefully reside with other tank mates can lead to dead or injured critters, as well as stress related diseases. Use common sense; learn about the compatibility of critters before putting them together!
5) Purchasing Livestock Without Knowing What They Are and How To Care For Them -
It is amazing how many people select new additions for their tank without even knowing what they are and how to feed them. If a LFS sales person can't tell you about an animal in their store, especially its dietary requirements, as well as show you that it is eating before you buy it, then run, don't walk to the nearest exit. Don't buy on impulse. It's not like there will never be another one ordered in the future that you can buy. Take the time to learn about an animal you want to buy, BEFORE doing so!6) Purchasing Fish in Poor Health - One of the easiest things to do when selecting a critter is to determine whether or not it is healthy. In a simple phrase: most sick fish don't eat. Once again, always have your LFS sales person show you that a fish is eating before purchasing it. On your part, learn how to recognize the symptoms or outward signs of common illnesses so you know what to look for when inspecting livestock to buy.
7) Lack of Performing Routine Tank Maintenance Tasks - Well maintained tanks seldom experience high nitrate levels, bacterial outbreaks, or other common tank problems. Therefore, to avoid the common pitfalls that may stem from this area, we strongly advise following a regular maintenance routine.
Of course there are many other areas where aquarists make mistakes, but we feel that this list pretty much covers a majority of the most common ones made. By taking advice from those that have been there, you'll save yourself a lot of headaches and frustration in the long run.
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I am sure lots of time and money has been spent researching the needs of the fish and corals you wish to purchase. Naturally, you want to protect this investment by following a proper acclimation process once your new additions arrive at your door.
The purpose of acclimation is simple: the water that the fish or corals are packaged in has a different temperature, pH, and salinity parameter than your aquarium. Fish, and more importantly invertebrates (including corals), are very sensitive to even the slightest changes in these parameters, so proper acclimation is crucial to ensuring their successful relocation.
We recommend the DRIP METHOD and want to remind you the acclimation process should never be rushed. Also, remember to keep your aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new additions are introduced into the aquarium to help them adjust to their new home.
Drip Method
You will need airline tubing and must be willing to monitor the entire process. Use a clean, 3 or 5-gallon bucket specifically for aquarium use only. If acclimating both fish and invertebrates, use a separate buckets for each.Carefully empty the contents of the bags (including the water) into the buckets , making sure not to expose sensitive invertebrates to the air. Depending on the amount of water in each bag, this may require tilting the bucket at a 45 degree angle to make sure the animals are fully submerged. You may need a prop or wedge to help hold the bucket in this position until there is enough liquid in the bucket to put it back to a level position.
Using airline tubing, set up and run a siphon drip line from the main aquarium to each bucket. You will need separate airline tubing for each bucket used. Use a plastic airline control valve to regulate flow from the aquarium. It is a good idea to secure the airline tubing in place so that it does not drip outside the bucket.
Begin a siphon by sucking on the end of the airline tubing you'll be placing into each of the buckets. When water begins flowing through the tubing, adjust the drip by adjusting the control valve to a rate of about 1-3 drips per second.
When the water volume in the bucket doubles, discard half and begin the drip again until the volume doubles once more – about one hour.
At this point, your new additions can be transferred to the aquarium. Sponges, clams, and gorgonias should never be directly exposed to air. Gently scoop them out of the drip bucket with the original bag, making sure they’re fully covered in water. Submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and gently remove the specimen from the bag. Next, seal off the bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the water will escape into the aquarium; this is O.K. Also, to avoid damage, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of live coral when handling.
NOTE: Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to changes in specific gravity. It is extremely important to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result. Test specific gravity with a hydrometer or refractometer.
Important Facts
* Be patient - never rush the acclimation procedure. The total acclimation time for your new arrival should take no longer than one hour.
* Always follow the acclimation procedure even if your new arrival appears to be dead. Some fish and invertebrates can appear as though they are dead when they arrive and will usually revive when the above procedure is followed correctly.
* Never place an airstone into the shipping bag when acclimating your new arrival. This will increase the pH of the shipping water too quickly and expose your new arrival to lethal ammonia.
* Keep aquarium lights off for at least four hours after the new arrival is introduced into the aquarium.
* Most invertebrates and marine plants are more sensitive than fish to salinity changes. It is imperative to acclimate invertebrates to a specific gravity of 1.023-1.025 or severe stress or trauma may result.
* Sponges, clams, scallops, and gorgonias should never be directly exposed to air. Follow the acclimation procedure, but instead of netting the specimen out of the shipping bag, submerge the bag underwater in the aquarium and remove the marine life from the bag. Seal off the shipping bag underwater by twisting the opening, and remove it from the aquarium. Discard both the shipping bag and the enclosed water. A tiny amount of the diluted shipping water will escape into the aquarium. Don't be alarmed; this will have no adverse affect on the tank inhabitants.
* Some live corals produce excess slime when shipped. After the acclimation procedure is followed, hold the coral by the rock or skeletal base and gently shake the coral in the shipping bag before placing into the aquarium. To avoid damage, please remember never to touch the "fleshy" part of a live coral. Many species of coral will not open for several days after introduction into their new home. Please allow several days for the coral to adapt to the new conditions in the aquarium. _____________________________________________________________________________________
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS _____________________________________________________________________________________
So what's different about saltwater versus freshwater?
As alluded to above, saltwater fish are more sensitive to changes in their environment. The critical parameters of a saltwater tank are pH, nitrate, salinity, and temperature. During the cycling process, ammonia and nitrite can also be a problem. These elements are not different from those of a freshwater tank, but the degree to which they may stray is vastly different.
Freshwater fish are found in rivers, streams, ponds and lakes. Saltwater fish are collected from oceans and seas. As such, their natural environment is quite stable and they do not readily adapt to major changes in water chemistry or temperature. In addition, since nearly all saltwater fish and invertebrates are captured in the wild (many freshwater fish are either tank or pond raised), there are greater risks associated with handling and shipping. The most important thing you need to know about saltwater tanks, is that you can not have nearly as many fish as you can have in a freshwater tank!
Why does algae grow in my aquarium?
Algae is a naturally occurring plant life which is present in varying forms and in all aquaria. Algae is not harmful, however it can become unsightly. A good growth of healthy algae provides an additional food source for your fish and assists in oxygenation. Overnight algae “blooms” can sometimes occur. Algae is dependent upon food and light. Excess food and light can cause unusual algae blooms. Changes in water chemistry, temperature, etc. also support algaes growth.
How much do I feed my fish?
Small frequent feedings are best. Personally we recommend feeding your fish every other day rather than everyday. Of course, this also depends on the feeding requirements of your inhabitants. Examples would be Anthias and Tangs as they tend to have a higher metabolism and require continuous feeding. Feed a small amount and when it is quickly consumed by your fish, leaving nothing to fall to the bottom of the aquarium, you may feed more. Now, as a Rule of Thumb we recommend not feeding your fish any more food than the size of its eyeball as they are generally the same size. Now of course, this rule does not apply for every fish. However, it is a way of controlling the amount of food that is fed and the amount of excess waste that they will produce. A variety of food is very important for the health and well-being of your aquarium inhabitants. Overfeeding will pollute your system! Feed the fish (not the tank) ! Think about this...
Food should very seldom reach the bottom before your fish get it. You should strive to never see suspended, settled or floating food particles after 5 minutes. And - Never allow food to be left on the tank bottom. If you make a mistake and over feed any type of fish food, Please get out your net...and go to work eliminating as much as possible. (Excess food is often the primary cause of undesirable algae outbreaks and also a "trigger" for many fish deaths related to poor water quality). Just 5 minutes out of your day! Some situations require daily or twice daily feedings. Others will require only feeding every three days or so. Consult your professional regarding your specific tank community. In all cases, each feeding will only require 5 minutes of your time.
Please be willing to invest this small amount of time at each feeding. You will save yourself many headaches and considerable money. You will get to know your fishes habits and what foods they like. And ...you will become better at NOT overdoing it.Stay around and enjoy observing them during feeding. Not only are they more active during this time, but it is highly important that you see that there is no uneaten food left behind. You will also be able to note any unusual behavior that might indicate an emerging problem.
Very occasionally food will land on the substrate. If it can be removed - it should be. Please take notice and do your level best to rid the tank of this potential pollution. Net it out or grab it out - just get it out. You may be preventing a chain reaction which could lead to many fish losses. Then - Be certain to adjust future feedings to insure that this does not happen often. So, be careful..... And responsible!!
How can I get my fish to eat?
This can be a problem for any aquarists when a new fish shows no interest in foods that are being offered. Whether dealing with a non-eating fish, crustacean, anemone, coral or other invertebrate, the first step in overcoming this problem is to know what feeding characteristics it has, and what feeding category it falls into. What and how does it eat in nature? Is it a carnivore, herbivore, omnivore, suspension or filter feeder?
Carnivores: Eat a main diet of other marine fishes, crustaceans and invertebrates. These animals are categorized as predators and/or scavengers. Predators spend their life hunting or lying in wait for an unwary meal. When a meal is consumed or they have had their fill, many species will not eat again for a day or two, sometimes longer.
Scavengers are opportunistic feeders, generally eating the left overs from other predators, and most will eat detritus as well. For fish, Cardinals, Dottybacks, Eels, Frogs/Anglers, Grammas, Groupers, Hamlets, Hawks, Lions/Scorpions, Pipefishes, Porcupines, Puffers, Seabasses, Sharks, Snappers, Soldierfishes, Squirrels and Triggers are predators, and most are also scavengers. Even though some Hermit Crab, True Crab, Shrimp and Starfish species are herbivores, most are carnivorous or omnivorous, and all types should be considered scavengers. Some will eat or pick at sessile (attached at the base; stationary) invertebrates and corals, coraline algae, and may even attack other fish or tank mates and inhabitants. Many Anemones are considered carnivorous, but some fall into the filter feeders category as well.
Herbivores: Eat a main diet of marine plants and algaes. These animals spend their entire day cruising and grazing, picking here and there when a food source is found. Fish that fall into this category are Tangs, Surgeons and some Blenny species. Some species of Sea Urchins, Hermit Crabs, True Crabs and Starfishes are herbivores, but most are considered omnivorous, as well as scavengers as mentioned above.
Omnivores: Eat a combination diet of corals, small crustaceans, inverts and some marine plant life. These are not predatory fish, but some species will sometimes pick at fleshy foods as well. Fish that fall into this category are Damsels, Clownfishes, Cow/Boxfishes, Anthias', Blennies, Gobies, Dottybacks, Filefishes, Goatfishes, Seahorses, Spade/Batfishes, Sweetlips, Wrasses/Hogfishes and Moorish Idols. Angels and Butterflyfishes are considered to be omnivores, but some species mainly or solely feed on corals and/or particular sponges. Parrotfish are considered to be strictly coral eaters. Suspension or filter feeders are either sessile animals that derive their nutrition from filtering out nutrients and microscopic foods suspended in the ocean water, or sand sifting animals that filter foods from their substrate environment.
Animals like corals, tube worms, sponges, tunicates and the like are suspension feeders, while sea cucumbers, some species of starfishes, marine worms and other similar inverts fall into the filter feeder category. Mandarinfish/Dragonets, some Blenny, Goby and other similiar fish species are predatory sand sifters. They search for tiny crustaceous copepods and amphipods to feed on, and require a good healthy population of them in the aquarium substrate to survive.
Why do my fish sometimes fight amongst themselves?
Fish have different personalities. Some are aggressive, others are passive. Fish do eat other fish. If one specimen becomes weakened or is otherwise too timid, he will fall often prey to other fish. Even compatible species sometimes will kill one another. Sometimes death occurs as a result of stress from being chased by other fish or as a result of competition from other specimens. We will do our best to recommend compatible species, but in this field no rule is absolute.
Aggression among fish, particularly marine species, is a problem that plagues both beginning and advanced aquarists. For example, you buy a new fish and add it to your apparently peaceful community tank and suddenly violence erupts. Long-term residents react aggressively toward a newly introduced fish, causing acclimation difficulties. This can lead to stress, disease and often the subsequent death of the new addition. The purpose of this article is to examine reef fish aggression and suggest techniques that will allow us to reduce conflict in our saltwater aquariums.
Provide as much aquarium space as possible for each tank inhabitant, especially if some of the species are known to be aggressive. Overcrowding your aquarium will lead to profuse amounts of fighting.
There should be a large number of hiding places in the tank. This doesn't simply mean to load the tank with coral or live rock. Make sure there are caves, crevices and holes suitable for all members of your aquarium community. Also, utilize topography to curb aggression. Using a number of smaller coral heads or groupings of live rock rather than a continuous wall of them can be advantageous in dispersing territory holders and reducing skirmishes among them. A territorial fish will often restrict its defense to one coral head, which is the core area of its territory, and the immediate area around it. If the aquascaping structure is contiguous, more battles over boundaries are likely to occur.
Avoid keeping members of the same species in the same aquarium unless they are known to school or group in captivity. Some species that school on the reef may not tolerate each other in the confines of a smaller tank. Even in schools, individuals usually maintain a specific distance between each other, and often in a home aquarium these spacing requirements cannot be met. The size of the tank is important in determining if you will be successful in keeping species members together.
If you intend to keep two fish of the same species together, it is often wise to introduce them into your aquarium at the same time. Many of the species we keep will change sex depending on their social status. Often, a larger, more dominant individual will be one sex and the smaller, subordinate specimens in the group will be the opposite sex. To increase the likelihood of acquiring a pair in a sex-changing species, purchase two individuals of different sizes. If a subordinate individual is removed from its natural environment and isolated in a dealer's tank, it may begin to change sex. Once an individual has changed sex, it cannot be reversed. Therefore, if you place two individuals in the same tank and fighting occurs, it could be that the fish are both the dominant sex and will have to be separated. This technique is especially effective when trying to keep species such as clownfish or pygmy angelfish.
If problems do occur when you introduce a new fish, there are several techniques you can use to eliminate or minimize the hostility. Turning off all lights will temporarily reduce aggression, unless, of course, the aggressor is a nocturnal species. Fish are often less aggressive on a full stomach, so feeding your fish can sometimes be effective for short-term behavioral modification.
If these simple procedures are ineffective, then more drastic steps will be necessary. Because many territorial fish remember the boundaries of their territory by the topographical features of their habitat, changing the aquascaping around immediately before and after introducing a new fish can reduce aggression. In effect, changing the topography is the same as moving the old residents of the tank to a new area.
Another method for introducing a new fish into a more aggressive community tank is to partition a portion of the aquarium off, creating an area where you can isolate the new resident. The partition should be clear, such as plexiglass, so that the older residents can see the new fish and habituate to its presence. Depending on the type of filtration used, it may be necessary for the partition to contain numerous holes and the top to be slotted to allow water exchange between the two compartments. This isolation period allows the new fish to become familiar with a part of the tank so that it can more easily find a place to hide, if necessary, when the partition is removed. After a week or so, the partition can be removed. With any luck, aggression will be minimal.
Another option is to pull the aggressor out of the tank, isolate it in a quarantine tank and then reintroduce it after the new arrival has settled in. If all of these techniques fail, you will probably have to permanently remove the aggressive individual(s) or give up the idea of introducing more fish into the tank.
Why do healthy fish becomes sick?
Even established aquariums with healthy communities can become diseased. Parasites and bacteria are always present in aquarium water. Stress due to temperature fluctuations and other factors such as minute contaminants, can cause outbreaks of disease.
What is the Nitrogen Cycle?
The magic that makes it possible to keep aquarium fish alive and well in an aquarium.
The nitrogen cycle is a chain reaction in nature resulting in the birth of various types of nitrifying bacteria's, each with their own job to do. Each new bacteria born consumes the previous one, and in turn gives birth to the next bacteria. The three components involved to make this happen are ammonia (NH3 or NH3+4), nitrites (NO2) and nitrates (NO3).
What does this mean? The above explanation is the process that keeps your fish alive, the exact same process which occurs in our oceans, lakes and streams. Without this process your fish would be dead within days
To put the above explanation into terms you would understand it would go something like this. Your fish go to the bathroom, their waste turns into ammonia which is deadly and will kill your fish given the chance. That same waste, with the help of the above process, is then converted into a beneficial bacteria that needs ammonia to live. Therefore, each time your fish go to the bathroom this bacteria gladly consumes the ammonia thus leaving your aquarium toxin free.
Is this all there is to it? No, nothing is that easy, for every consumption there is an emission, in this circumstance the good bacteria converts into yet another deadly toxin called Nitrate. The only way to remove nitrate from your aquarium is by replacing your aquarium water, a water change. It's important to note that Nitrate is the least deadly and takes time to build up to a lethal dose.
During the first seven to ten days of setting up your aquarium with fish/liverock and water, the ammonia level should peak and quickly drop as nitrites begin to show up. DON'T - do any water changes yet (you should add water to make up for evaporation only) DON'T clean your filter yet.
Now, between the 15th and 19th day, your nitrites should be peaking about now and should soon drop. Ammonia should still be at zero. The process to rid the aquarium of nitrites takes a bit longer than the ammonia so be patient and remember...
DON'T - do any water changes yet (you should add water to make up for evaporation only) DON'T clean your filter yet. You will get tired of doing that soon enough.
Now during the 22nd and 29th day, the ammonia and Nitrites should be at zero now and Nitrates should be present. You can now start adding more fish, but be careful. Add only a few fish. You need to allow a bit of time for the bacteria to increase to take care of the increased bio-load that the new fish will add.
Now, you can do water changes. It is the way for you to control the nitrate level. 10 to 15% weekly or at least monthly is recommended. If you have an overstocked tank, you may need to increase the amount or frequency. Now - you can clean your filter. Be careful here. Clean your filter media in dechlorinated water (used aquarium water). This is so that you do not kill the bacteria that was formed during the nitrogen cycle.
What is a Protein Skimmer?
Protein skimmers or foam fractionators are readily available in every price range and are a basic necessity for any marine system. Beyond the requisite biological filtration, nothing is better at improving water quality than a protein skimmer.
The bulk of undesirable organic wastes that we want to eliminate from our systems and “surface active”, collecting near the surface of a gas-liquid interface. We can capitalize on this affinity in a column of aquarium water with air bubbles mixed in. Trapped materials, including wastes, uneaten food, and more, rise and are collected at the top as foam.
The tools that accomplish this are called foam separators, fractionators, air-strippers, or protein skimmers. (They actually remove much more than proteins, and purists tend to refer to them as foam fractionators, although the term protein skimmers is deeply entrenched in the aquarium lexicon.) Whatever they are called, the action is the same, with complex organic substances attaching to tiny air bubbles rising in a column or chamber. A dark, waste-laden foam concentrates at the top of the unit to be separated from the water and collected for disposal.
Types of skimmers: Protein skimmers generally fall into four types: air-driven, venturi, downdraft, and "other".Air-driven protein skimmers use a wooden or glass air stone to produce bubbles in a column of water. In hobbyist terms, we usually call these guys counter current skimmers. At one point co-current and counter-current was a big debate. These terms refer to the rotation of the water inside the skimmer. I don't think anyone cares too much about this debate anymore. Air driven skimmers require periodic (monthly) replacement of the air stones, a strong air pump to drive the air stones, and a small water pump to move water in and out of the skimmer.
What is Live Rock?
The main misconception is that the rock itself is alive. The rock is made up of calcium carbonate skeletons of long dead corals or other calcareous organisms. What makes it live is all the organisms living on it or in the crevices. Most of what is alive is bacteria which feed off the waste the fish produce. There also can be snails, crabs, worms, shrimp, sponge, and even algae living or growing on it. So when someone refers to live rock they are referring to rock that has living organisms on it.
Why do I need Live Rock?
The main reason live rock is the key to a saltwater aquarium is that it provides a home for different kinds of bacteria. These bacteria break down fish waste from ammonia all the way down to nitrogen gas which gets released from the tank.
Live rock is by far the most efficient biological filter and is of course the natural one. An important note about live rock is that it goes in to the main part of the tank. Unlike most hang on biological filters or wet/dry filters, when the power goes out, the live rock is still able to act as a filter since it is still in the tank with the fish.
Live rock is the main formation of the reefs out in the ocean and the main biological filter. Live rock provides a home for the fish and a foundation for most corals to grow on. Just like humans need a home to live in, most sea creatures need rock to provide them their home. Many fish do not do well in an aquarium without having hiding places. When fish do not have places to hide, such as those provided by live rock, they get spooked and stressed-out, which often leads to them getting sick and even dying. Corals also need a structure to live on and live rock allows them to be placed in a tank according to the specific environment they require.What is the difference between cured live rock and uncured live rock?
Uncured live rock is the result of shipping. After the rock is harvested from the ocean it gets boxed up and eventually sent to our store. That process causes some of the organisms on the rock to die off. Once the live rock gets put back into saltwater, the dead organisms decay and pollute the water. The dying organisms produce waste the same way fish do. The bacteria that grow on the rock to feed off the fish waste also grow to feed off the waste of the dying organisms. This process is referred to as cycling. Cycling a tank can take a few weeks because there are different kinds of bacteria that have to grow to break down the different forms of waste. After the cycle has finished and the rock is no longer producing waste and is in a state of breaking down waste it is considered cured.
How do I cure my live rock?
The use of live rock to create a reef system in the aquarium is one of the fastest growing areas in the aquatic industry. After being harvested from the ocean, transported into our holding tanks, and then reshipped to the end customer, “die-off” of organisms will occur on the live rock. This is a natural reaction to the environmental stress of temperature changes and exposure to air. “Curing” live rock is the process of removing the dead and decaying organic material from your live rock before you can add livestock to your new aquarium, or before you add new live rock to your established aquarium.
Live rock is a huge benefit to reef systems but there are a few special considerations, mainly curing, that aquarists need to understand to ensure the health of their reef inhabitants. During the curing process ammonia levels from the decomposing organic material can reach toxic levels, and for this reason you should never add new live rock to an existing aquarium. Most of the beneficial nitrifying bacteria and some of the other corals, macroalgaes, and animals will survive this process, providing you with the foundation for a successful marine aquarium.
Curing your live rock usually takes from one to three weeks depending upon the amount organic material that is on the live rock. This can be highly variable depending on what type of live rock is purchased. Follow these steps for the best results.
You will need the following supplies:
* A trash can or storage container of suitable size to submerge the live rock, 30 gallons is usually a good size * A submersible aquarium heater big enough to keep the water at 80 degrees during the curing process * A submersible pump, or pumps, to provide vigorous water movement in the container * A soft scrub brush and an old tooth brush, to remove debris from surface of the rock. * Synthetic salt mix * Salt water ammonia test kit
1. Premix enough saltwater to completely submerge rock in your large container upon arrival. 2. Use the soft scrub brush to remove any loose or obviously decaying material; use a toothbrush to get into smaller areas. Do not scrub the entire rock, you are only removing loose or decaying material. 3. Place rock under water and use the submersible pumps to create a vigorous water pattern in the container; use the heater to keep the water at 80 degrees.
4. Keep the container covered or dimly lit to prevent unwanted algae growth during high nutrient conditions. 5. Perform 100% water changes twice per week 6. Repeat scrubbing as necessary in-between water changes. 7. After the first week test the water for ammonia, once the ammonia levels have been reduced to zero the rock is cured and ready for the aquarium. prepared seawater.
What happens if I don't cure it properly?
Improperly cured rock will continue to go through a die back, and if added to your tank too quickly, will cause an ammonia spike that could be deadly to existing inhabitants in the tank. In addition, if aeration and proper temperature are not maintained, then more of the beneficial nitrifying bacteria will die off, reducing the initial effectiveness of the rock as a biological filter. Live rock is not difficult to cure properly and the benefits of high quality live rock are well worth the effort. So follow these simple steps and you can be assured that you are putting clean, healthy rock into your aquarium.
How much live rock do I need for my aquarium?
For best filtration, the general "rule of thumb" is 1 lb of Pacific origin rock per gallon or 1 1/2 to 2 lbs of Atlantic or Carribean rock per gallon (the Pacific is more porous, so less is needed to produce the same results).
Where do your corals come from?
Ninety percent of our coral is collected from the country of origin and our collectors hand pick the very best specimens for our online and maintenance customers.
Our corals are also shipped directly to us which means that the corals are only bagged twice. Once straight to our facility and then finally to you. When you buy from your local fish store (and other online dealers), your new purchase most likely has been shipped to a wholesaler, then shipped to the store and then bagged a third time when taken home by you. One too many questionable water systems on the way to your aquarium! Once our weekly shipment arrives at our facility, they are dissinfected in quarantine for any possible external parasites, continously monitored throughout their stay for any potential issues, held under the strictest level of water chemistry and lighting awaiting to be shipped to you, our valued customer. We definitely have the finest, healthiest corals available on-line, take pride in our sucess of having an extremly low mortality rate, and know how to get them to you in the best condition available.Does it harm the reefs to collect and sell fish and corals from them?
The Fish Guy realizes that cutting up reefs and selling them won't last. The livestock we buy is unprotected and collected legally. We buy captive bred xenia, mushrooms, soft corals, clams, and fish whenever possible, and even propagate some ourselves. We educate our customers about the livestock they are buying, and help them create a healthy aquarium that will simulate a natural environment. This means that we are placing fish and corals into flourishing aquariums where they will live and grow for years to come. The Fish Guy believes that by helping construct natural reef aquariums around the world the general public will have a chance to see a living coral reef up close, and will realize how important it is to protect Earth's most magnificent and diverse ecosystem.
Are there some aquarium fish sold in aquarium stores that usually do not do well in captivity?
We wish that we could say that all fish sold in the aquarium industry were great specimens that, if properly cared for, would live a long time. Unfortunately, that is not the case. Some fish simply do not do well in captivity. Some species may have requirements that we cannot provide, such as a special diet. Other species may only survive under certain conditions we cannot duplicate or may not be kept in close quarters with many of the other available species. Some fish that shoal (school) together in the wild will not live for a long time if they are not kept with large numbers of the same species (There are a large number of shoaling fish, however, that will do well if kept by themselves). Some species are easily stressed by being in captivity and may therefore be particularly sensitive to certain disease vectors. Unfortunately, too many of these fish are sold to new hobbyists, especially with marine aquaria, and when the fish do not do well, the new or inexperienced hobbyist may get discouraged and give up the hobby. This serves no one, especially the aquarium industry, as these are the people who will let everyone they know "how hard aquariums are to keep," thereby discouraging others from getting into the hobby. There are hundreds of species that will do well in aquaria. We feel there is no reason to sell species that have a history of being difficult. It isn't fair to the aquarium owner, and it is especially unfair to the fish!
What is Red Slime Algae(Cynobacteria)?
Red Slime Algae are unsightly, aggressive algae commonly found in many saltwater aquariums. Though they are commonly referred to as algae, they are not "true" algae, but are cyanobacteria.
These microscopic organisms thrive in underwater environments where excess nutrients and poor water conditions are present. Red Slime Algae are reddish-brown in color and first appear in your aquarium in small clumps or patches. If left untreated, the algae will spread and form a thick, slimy layer across your entire aquarium. To prevent nuisance Red Slime Algae from overtaking your aquarium, routine maintenance is extremely important. Here are some simple steps you can take to reduce excess nutrients and organic debris, which play host to Red Slime Algae:* Use a siphon to clean a portion of your substrate regularly. This will remove organic debris and uneaten food. Also, be sure not to overfeed your fish. Only feed as much food as they can consume in a few minutes.
* Be sure your aquarium has good water movement. A powerhead or wavemaker will help increase water movement.
* Perform regular water changes and routinely replace mechanical filter media.
* Maintain proper marine pH between 8.1 and 8.4 with buffers or with kalkwasser. A high pH helps discourage aggressive growth of Red Slime Algae.
* Supplement existing filtration with phosphate-removing chemical filter media.
* Use a reverse osmosis system for quality source water. This will help prevent buildup of excess minerals in aquarium water from the get-go.
Red Slime Algae are an annoying addition to your aquarium, and once present, a challenge to eliminate. The best way to deal with Red Slime Algae is prevention. With a regular maintenance regimen, you can help keep your aquarium beautiful and algae free.
Why is the Water in My Aquarium Green?
Green water is most often the result of an algae bloom. It often has turned an aquarium into what appears a thick pea soup. It is extremely unsightly in the novice's aquarium, and is extremely difficult to eradicate, even for the advanced fish keeper.
Green Algae is a single celled plant that uses light to photosynthesize. The plant itself is extremely small, only a single cell, and when conditions are right, will multiply quite rapidly. Green algae reproduces either asexually by buds, or in a second step, it sexually combines with other cells to product new plants with full chromosome content. These in turn grow buds and the process starts all over again. When this replication spirals out of control and overtakes an area, this is called a bloom. The major problem is that the algae plants are so small they are rarely removed by any standard filter, and even those that are trapped tend to clog the materials, slowing the flow and allowing more algae to remain in the actual aquarium water since the intake suction is reduced to continue the bloom.
The right conditions for a bloom include adequate fertilizer and light. In most cases in the home aquarium, even a new tank, the fertilizer needs are easily met. The only limiting factor for plants is phosphate, and most aquariums have more than enough to support a massive bloom if the lighting is adequate.
The most important factor when green water occurs is light. In my experience, in the great majority of the cases where a bloom occurs, natural light is allowed to strike the aquarium. The actual time when sunlight enters the aquarium can be quite brief, ten to twenty minutes a day seems to be enough. A very brightly sunlit room can also have the same effect.
Because of the size of the plant, and the very fast replication, eradicating an algal bloom is extremely difficult.
I do not advocate adding algicides, in many cases they may cause harm to the fish, I prefer a natural solution rather than employing strong toxic compounds.
A number of small water changes, about 10% per time spaced a day apart will dilute the cloud, but still leave it tinted green in most cases. This can be combined with more homeopathic actions. The most effective way is to remove the light source. If the sun is striking the tank from the rear or side, use a background to cover and block the entry of light. If the room is very bright, draw the shades during a greater part of the day to reduce the amount of light the algae can use. As a last resort, disassemble the aquarium and move it to a place that is much darker and use artificial lighting for the aquarium. Unless the tank is heavily planted with aquarium plants, the amount of light the fish receive is not particularly important.
The above is the best way to control the problem for the long term. Sunlight is extremely powerful, and is no friend to an aquarium. The other area that can be manipulated and controlled by the aquarist is the amount of available phosphate in the aquarium. This chemical compound is considered to be a limiting factor, if there is not enough of it, the plants are not able to grow. Just like reducing the sunlight limits the algae from photosynthesizing so that they starve and die back, limiting the phosphate will also inhibit the growth of algae from a metabolic constraint. At extremely low levels of phosphate, aquarium plants as well may suffer. Generally a balance exists between algae and live aquarium plants, when standard plants are thriving, they are much better at competing for available phosphate and get what they need first, so algae often is over whelmed. A rooted aquarium plant is able to extract nutrients from the soil as well, so reduction of dissolved phosphates in the water column is normally not a handicap for standard aquarium plants, rather they are much better able to compete and win against free floating algae.
Introduction of phosphate comes every time the fish are fed, as it is a component of the food. Fish require some phosphate for their metabolic processes, but rarely as much as is provided in the food. Some manufacturers have recognized this and consciously reduced the amount of phosphate in the foods they offer. Careful feeding with low phosphate foods will reduce the amount available for algae to use for themselves.
If there is still too much, the use of a phosphate remover resin will help keep the concentration low and prevent sudden blooms of algae. There are a variety of these products available on the market. Most require that they be added tot he higher flows of the filter and will remove a set amount of phosphate when they have been exhausted.
From a purely homeopathic viewpoint, I also use a biological sludge eliminator that helps break down the waste materials, from all sources, food, fecal mater and other decaying organic material. These bacteria teams incorporate phosphate into their biomass, thus preventing it from being available for free floating algae to exploit.
Sometimes the only thing that will do is a rapid fix, there are some floculants on the market that will help. A floculant will attract the algae as well as any other suspended particles into larger diameters clumps to allow the filter to remove them through its screens. Use a poly wool or filter floss in the filter rather than the regular filter materials. It is cheaper and, believe me, you will need to discard the material immediately after use. Poly Wool is the best trap for this treatment. Do not overdose. The downside to these products is that the clumping action will reverse and it will be even harder to clear the tank if you do!
Algae is rarely ever totally removed from an operating aquarium, most of the time some variety is anchored to hard surfaces, but the types that produce green water are suspended in the water column. They will gradually reduce to invisible populations when denied natural sunlight or enough phosphate to grow. Live rooted plants under artificial light have a better competitive advantage to grow and prevent algae explosions of any type. It seems the two are antagonistic, and there is very rarely a problem with algae in a strongly growing live planted aquarium.
How do I know which fish are compatible?
Below is a fish compatibility chart. This chart gives a general rule of what fish are okay to house with other fish. Keep in mind, as with any animal, they all have their own personalities and may not always be as compatible as the chart may show. There may be some harrasing from time to time as the fish simply need to figure out their pecking order. We claim no responsibility in the event that your fish end up perishing due to incompatibility regardless of whether the chart shows otherwise.
Are saltwater fish hard to keep?
Just as in freshwater, there are some species that are usually quite sturdy and some that challenge even the experts. The Compatibility Chart is meant to help the hobbyist choose fish and invertebrates appropriate for his level of expertise. Sometimes an individual or group of even the most hardy variety will have been subjected to just one too many changes, and will become weak or sickly or will refuse to eat. We will try to help in choosing healthy specimens as much as possible.
What size tank is needed?
Almost any size aquarium can be used, but generally a larger tank will be easier to keep chemically balanced and has a lot more options when it comes to fish compatibility. On the other hand, assuming the household budget is a factor, it is better to set up a medium-sized tank with good equipment than to attempt a larger tank with inadequate equipment. Many of the most popular saltwater sizes are in the 30 to 55 gallon range.
Which fish get along?
The Compatibility Chart will help with selecting fish that are likely to get along. In addition, the three following rules will usually apply: 1. Any fish that will fit into another fish's mouth usually ends up there. 2. The less related any two fish are, the more likely they will get along. 3. The less two fish resemble one another, the more likely they will get along.
Fish and Invertebrates Together?
Many hobbyists desire to keep a mixed collection - with both fish and invertebrates in the same aquarium. While such a display can certainly be very beautiful (especially with symbiotic species like anemones and clown fish), there can be problems involved. The most effective treatments for saltwater "ich" also kill invertebrates. Apparently, the cell structures are similar enough between parasites and invertebrates that the reactions to chemicals are quite the same.
Since the treatment/removal time for "ich" medications is at least four weeks the unfortunate hobbyist is often forced to sacrifice either the invertebrates by moving them to another tank or the fish by risking ineffective treatment.
To further complicate matters, salt water invetebrates are suspected of being "carriers" of "ich", and since a suitable treatment has yet to be utilized, suppliers cannot guarantee that invertebrates are free of these parasites.
The novice saltwater hobbyist is advised to weigh the risks of the mixed collection against the obvious benefits and to make plans accordingly. Freshwater dips and quarantine tanks can reduce the chances of newly acquired specimens introducing disease to an established aquarium. Low fish population density (few fish in a large tank as in the currently popular "reef" type aquariums) may reduce epidemic outbreaks and allow fish to deal with parasites in their natural manner.
Beginner Saltwater Fish
Damsels The best beginner fish for a marine tank are damsels. These fish are very hardy, being able to withstand worse water conditions than most other marine fish, they are not picky eaters, and they are fairly inexpensive.
Clownfish Clownfish are related to damsels, and are fairly hardy. However, they are sometimes more difficult to acclimate to a new tank. Clowns, in general, are very territorial, but are not otherwise aggressive except to other clowns.
Blennies/Gobies These small fish are somewhat hardy and are unlikely to cause trouble for the other fish in your tank. Some of them show a lot of personality, though they will get lost in a large tank. Many of these fish are excellent additions to a tank to help control algae.
Tangs Tangs are fairly hardy, though they are very susceptible to marine ich. Being algae eaters, they are useful to introduce when your tank starts growing algae. They must be fed leafy greens if there is no suitable algae growing in the tank (green algae).
Triggerfish/Lionfish If you are setting up a tank for large aggressive fish, you can start with triggers and/or lionfish, as they are hardy.
Beginner Invertebrates
Shrimps Some of the more popular shrimps are Cleaner Shrimp, Blood Shrimp, Candycane or Peppermint Shrimp, and Coral Banded Shrimp. The cleaner shrimp is denoted by a white on red stripe down the middle of its back. They are fairly easy to keep. The Blood shrimp is intensely red with some white spots. The Coral Banded shrimp is very popular with reef keepers, but must be watched around small fish. This shrimp has been known to eat small fish without thinking twice.
Crabs There are many different type of crabs, but the most commonly seen varieties are anemone crabs, arrow crabs, and hermit crabs. Crabs are generally omnivorous and readily accept the same foods as your fish. Like shrimp, crabs can only eat food which has made it to the bottom of the tank. Thus, ensure some food is in reach of your crabs.
Sea Urchins and Starfishes Most sea urchins and Starfishes are suitable for beginners who have a few months experience. Once again they vary greatly in size, shape, and color. Beware, some sea urchins are poisonous. Some sea urchins and starfish feed on detritus and algae, and small particles of food that have fallen within their reach while others are known to eat coral and invertebrates so research your new addition before you buy.
The following items may display behavior you are not familiar with: Fish: May breath rapidly during acclimation -- this is normal.
Angels, Triggers, & Tangs: Lay on their side when in the bag or acclimating.
Wrasses: Lay on their side when in bag or acclimating; may spin harmless cottony substance in bag and "play dead".
Shrimp: May act motionless for up to 30 seconds when first introduced into tank, move them around
Sand Crabs: May act motionless when first introduced, move them around.
Starfish: May stay motionless or not move for days at a time, pick up and inspect for signs of disintegration.
Snails & Conchs: May not open or move for days at a time, pick up and see if it smells rancid.
Puffers: Like to lay on bottom.
Corals & Anemones: May take hours or days to fully open or inflate.
Anemones: Shipped in little or no water, will inflate and shrink, disintegration is only indicator of death.
- CORAL / MACROALGAE
- Inverts/Fish
- WYSIWYG
- Live Rock / Gravel & Sand
- MESSAGE BOARDS
- Additives/Dosers & Salt Mix
- Aquariums & Stands
- Books
- Calcium Reactors & Sterilizers
- Chillers/Heaters
- Coral Propagation
- Fish Nets & Pest Traps
- Fish Food/Feeders
- Medication/Pest Control
- Monitors & Controllers
- Maintenance Supplies/Test Kits
- Lighting /Bulbs & Electrical Supplies
- Overflow Boxes
- Plumbing
- Protein Skimmers
- Pumps
- Sumps/Refugiums/ Filters
- Replacement Parts
- RO & RO/DI & Cartridges
- FAQ
- CHOOSING AN AQUARIUM
- Wavemakers
